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Humphry Slocombe & Assorted Beverages

1/2 Two things I like about vacations are drinking in the middle of the day and eating lots of sweets. My dull workaday life is sugar-free, and cocktails are relegated to the weekends. I satisfied both loves my first day in San Francisco, a Saturday when good foodies are supposed to be at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, when instead, I met up with an old Portland friend who now lives in the Mission.

Humphry slocombe secret breakfast

He was already acquainted with popular ice creamery, Bi-Rite, so we chose to immerse ourselves in weirder flavors at Humphry Slocombe. We all were swayed by Secret Breakfast, a wink-wink blend of cornflakes and Jim Beam. Second scoops included Peanut Butter Curry for me, which tasted as advertised and had the bluntness of turmeric-heavy curry powder; Olive Oil for Todd, which he said was orangey, not olivey; and a mistaken Salt and Pepper for James (he’d ask for Cayenne Cantaloupe and I screwed up the order because my brain couldn’t retain three combos of two).

The unexpected thing was that the flavors weren’t wildly distinct. I don’t think I would’ve guessed either of the two ingredients in the Secret Breakfast, which was more creamy and vanilla-ish. The cracked pepper definitely stood out because I thought it was my bowl and not the curry flavor I’d been expecting. However, I didn’t taste any salt and would’ve liked the contrast. I don’t think we converted Todd from Bi Rite, but I’d give Humphry another chance if I lived nearby. Plus, the prosciutto flavor is back on the menu today.

Humphry slocombe exterior

Odd for someone who eats ice cream like never, I also had a scoop of nectarine at brand new Mission Hill Creamery in Santa Cruz, a company started by my boyfriend’s sister’s husband’s childhood friend. Apparently, he is of the same purist, seasonal school as Bi Rite and learned from the same master somewhere in the Northeast. I thought it was interesting that he claimed that Humphry Slocombe quirks wouldn’t fly in Santa Cruz. I was just reading about a place in Maine, which strikes me as a more conservative locale, doing flavors like Thai Chile and Chocolate Wasabi, so you never know. I did not take any photos because I tend to reserve food paparazzi behavior for company who is used to it.

Dirty thieves snack

I wasn’t sure if Dirty Thieves, around the corner from Humphry Slocombe, was a true dive or a facsimile, but the booths were ripped up enough and while PBR tallboys and a shot of whiskey are hip in their own way, it’s not like housemade horehound bitters and lavender-infused Plymouth Gin. In fact, my long list of to-try mixology dens (Albemic, Bar Agricole, Comstock Saloon, Smuggler’s Cove, Hogs & Rocks, Beretta, among others) completely got top shelved once I set foot in San Francisco.

Li po

Instead, we mingled with tourists swaying to Ray Charles covers banged out on the corner piano at Gold Dust Lounge, and nursed a few beers at Li Po on a Labor Day night in Chinatown so silent we tried not to disrupt the homeless man sleeping in the doorway next to where we parked. He continued his buzzsaw snoring, perhaps the only thing keeping Lo Pan, who we kept imagining would float by in the dark, at bay.

Eddie rickenbacker's bar

I also couldn’t pass up Eddie Rickenbacker’s, a prototypical fern bar of the let’s put crap and Tiffany lamps all over the place school of décor that only now Applebee’s and Ruby Tuesdays are trying to move away from. We really wanted to see Mr. Higgins, the obese, three-legged Katrina rescued cat who lives in the bar, but he’d died three weeks prior to the date we arrived to say hi. I drank a shot of Maker’s Mark in his honor, though he was probably more of a Harvey Wallbanger feline.

Dirty Thieves continued the refreshing San Francisco tradition of warm service, irony-rich PBR or not, an antidote to the dourness I’ve just come to expect as normal in Brooklyn. In fact, our bartender was so friendly he practically apologized for not offering us free peanut butter and banana sandwiches that he’d been grilling out back. Full of Mayan food (another post) and ice cream, we still couldn’t turn down such kindness—and enthusiasm—it was as if he’d invented the combination himself.

Humphry Slocombe * 2790 Harrison St., San Francisco, CA

Dirty Thieves * 3050 24th St., San Francisco, CA

Li Po * 916 Grant Ave., San Francisco, CA

Eddie Rickenbacker’s * 133 2nd St., San Francisco, CA

Why does no one in the Bay Area have webpages? 

The Most Important Meal of the Day

Secret I only ignore my RSS feeds for six days and three breakfast-related surveys appear out of nowhere?

Breakfast is kind of a non-entity to me. Weekdays, I’ll bring fruit or a granola bar or sometimes a hard-boiled egg and eat at my desk around 11am. Boring. Weekends, I rarely get up early enough to indulge. It’s always the sore spot on vacations. I can never cram in three meals a day (and rarely get out of the hotel before 11am) so breakfast is usually scrapped for early lunch, dinner and a snack. While in the Bay Area this past weekend, I did manage to squeeze in hangtown hash, a take on the regional hangtown fry, at Sea Salt in Berkeley, and tocilog at Tselogs, a Filipino café in Daly City. Oh, I also had a scoop of Secret Breakfast ice cream, a.k.a. Jim Beam and cornflakes, at Humphry Slocombe.

According to Quaker Oats, nearly half of Americans pass on breakfast. They don’t provide much further insight, but suggesting that you turn off your mobile phone or hide it in other room while you get ready as a way to “make over your own morning routine and enjoy a healthier life” tells me that skipping breakfast is the least of this country’s problems.

Kix and SUPERVALU provide some contradictory data. The cereal brand claims that 79% of parents eat breakfast with their kids (liars) while the supermarket chain finds that 54% of children "fend for themselves in the kitchen for breakfast." Regionally, Chicago had the highest percentage of kids making their own breakfast (69%); San Diego had the fewest number of parents who serve their children breakfast before school (43%).

Photo from Panda Sashimi.

Em Thai

(spicy section only)

Living on the edge of Carroll Gardens in a corner apartment without a front gate, we rarely get the takeout menus that everyone else in the neighborhood tries warding off with menacing signs. I like reading menus, even pedestrian ones. When we recently found one for Em Thai, the glowing pink restaurant on Smith Street, my first inclination was to toss in the recycling bin, but my attention was grabbed by the large text on the first page, “New recommended spicy real Thai hot alert!! If you cannot eat real spicy food, we do not recommend all items on this menu.” Really?

That week James walked by after work and said the place was empty. Maybe they were desperate, trying new approaches. Friday night (and probably every evening) they were offering 20% off, not a tactic of a thriving restaurant. We had to move in quickly before the place went kaput.

Em thai larb

With each bite of the Brooklyn-style larb my hopes for the promised hot and spicy experience faded. Why is all the local Thai food two-note lime and sugar? The chicken larb from the regular menu was making me very anxious. They did use ground, roasted rice but I don’t think there was even a dusting of chile powder. My insides were jumping around, concerned that the entrees were going to suck. I really hate wasting a good meal.

Em thai pad cha pork

Pad Cha Pork Red Hot, the only dish on the special menu with four stars, came out next. I could see shredded krachai, crushed chiles and tiny branches of green peppercorns. Nice! And the first bite? Fiery in that way that almost tastes dirty, like the receptors in your mouth are being shocked and subsequently dulled as they get used to the feeling. Even though the pork was chunkier than what you might find in Thailand (I recall seeing mostly ground meat or fried pork belly) the flavor is the most Thai I’ve encountered in Brooklyn.

Em thai chile lime fish

The fish looks innocent, but it too was spicy from a coating of pure chopped garlic and chile, with a sweet-tart lime sauce. The steamed filet was flaky and almost too delicate for the garnish. I would’ve loved this with a whole crispy-fried fish, but was trying to balance the pork with a lighter choice.

So, I would stay away from pretty much everything on the menu except for the nine dishes in the special section—that is, unless you like cherries and pineapple with your duck and avocado in your panang curry. I’m definitely going to return for the Spicy Fried Wing Salad—that takes some audacity.

After five years in the neighborhood, I’ve finally found a Thai restaurant that makes me want to return—or at least order takeout—because they’ve done something to differentiate themselves from the slew of Smith Street blahness. Now, I just hope that they stay afloat.

Em Thai * 278 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY

Chain Links: Spreading Our Food Culture One Rib At a Time

BabyBackRibsBox Five chains that once gave up on Singapore are now back in business. Regarding TGI Friday's: "Over the years, Singapore has become a more cosmopolitan city with more Singaporeans increasingly becoming exposed to different cultures and foods from around the world. And that's why now is the time to make a re-entry into the Singapore market." Happy to be spreading our food culture by way of Jack Daniel's ribs. [CNNGo.com]

You'll find McDonald's and Pizza Hut all over the universe; Wendy's is now playing catch up. [Portfolio.com]

Friendly's wants to expand overseas. "Anywhere else in the world, there is not a single full-service restaurant chain whose differentiator is ice cream and treats," CEO Harsha Agadi says. He might want to rethink his position. Swensen's immediately comes to mind. The ice cream-centric chain is a staple in Asian malls and is also present in the Middle East and Latin America (ok, just Bogota). [Boston Herald]

I still don't understand how there can be a Coldstone Creamery and a Marble Slab Creamery, but the latter is coming to Australia. [press release]

Robeks, a smoothie chain I've never heard of, is going to open 500 cafes in 13 Asian countries. [press release]

Photo from Jack Daniel's Meats

Never Ending Pasta Bowl 2010: A Tale of Two Americas

I like to believe I’m not heavily influenced by advertising. It’s certainly not as if I got the idea to try Olive Garden’s Never Ending Pasta Bowl, an occasional promotion that seems to happen annually around September, based on any commercials (I did flip past one on a Spanish language channel last night–oh, and I see Grub Street has ads in their RSS feed, but not on their site). And I watch a lot of TV. A chain-loving friend happened to mention it was occurring this very second and I couldn’t let the opportunity pass me by. How else do you think I spend my Friday nights?

After my second NYC experience with the NEPB, it’s become very clear that they want to keep the $8.95 all-you-can-eat deal under wraps. If you’re sad like me, you don’t have a lot of free time but still spend stolen moments putting in different zip codes on chain restaurant sites to gauge small town/big city price discrepancies. Not only is it fun, it makes it obvious why the NEPB is top secret in the city.

A basic bowl of spaghetti with meat sauce will cost $14.50 in Chelsea, $15.50 in Times Square…and $10.75 in pretty much all of New Jersey. I think this is what they mean by Two Americas.

Olive garden never ending pasta bowl instructions If you go to one of these Manhattan locations you will not see any signage, menu inserts and no one will dare speak of it. That is fine, ask anyway. You’ll be handed the server’s pocket cheat sheet (sorry for the blurred snapshot) which lists the seven types of pastas and six sauce options—Chianti Three Meat and Creamy Parmesan Portobello are new!

You’ll also see how they are scripted to upsell you on unlimited meatballs, Italian sausage or roasted chicken for $2.95 and how to ring up situations like someone who decides to go for limitless meat on the second bowl. Insidery.

Olive garden whole wheat linguine

Bowl number one: whole wheat linguine with creamy parmesan portobello sauce because we know the presence of wheat will counteract all the fat and cheese. These noodles tasted suspiciously soft like traditional linguine–whenever I make whole wheat pasta at home, which is rarely, I regret it.  Same for brown rice, which I'm eating tonight by choice.

Olive garden penne

Bowl number two: penne with five cheese marinara. Who knows which five cheeses. Your eyes are not deceiving you; the subsequent bowls are much smaller like something you’d serve a scoop of ice cream in. This is not a complaint. One bowl was plenty—even non-chain pasta tends to bore me—but I had to order at least one more in the spirit of NEPB.

This is no time for hesitation; you have until October 10 to gorge yourself silly on noodles (and breadsticks and salad) for less than nine bucks. If anything, it beats newcomers, Nooï and Hello Pasta.

Previously on Olive Garden’s Never Ending Pasta Bowl.

From Dusk Till Dawn


Iftar

Ramadan has never meant much to me other than being able to ogle all the amazing market food that pops up annually on Malaysian food blogs. (Masak-Masak always has the most comprehensive Ramadan bazaar coverage for Kuala Lumpur.) This year I've learned two things.

That my old block in Ridgewood, Queens (not in a "from the block" sense but in a nostalgic, hey, my first NYC apartment was on Woodbine Street and Fresh Pond Road way) is home to many Albanian Muslims and that local teens make the fasting all day thing easier by sleeping in late, which is totally what I'd do. Street vendors also have it rough.

Also, that every chain restaurant (and Dean & Deluca) in Kuwait is offering iftar specials. I had no idea the holiday was so commercialized in the Middle East. Even Ikea has gotten into the spirit.

I pondered it; then Time wrote about it.

Photos from B&D Kuwait

Put a Ring On It

Onionring “’He asked me to pick out some spices to flavor the onion. When I turned back, he was holding a ring of onion and had the goofiest grin on his face as he started placing the ring on my finger,’ Ms. Bertozzi remembered.

Spontaneous, sure, but it would’ve been so much better with an onion ring. I’m picturing one of those towers they serve at Red Robin.

Chain Links: Transylvanian Pizza

Arrangments American chains have a fondness for Latin America and Asia, but you rarely hear about Eastern Europe. Domino’s will change all that when they show up in Romania. Poland, Ukraine and Bulgaria will follow. If Pizza Hut’s Romanian menu is any indication, Domino’s won’t shy away from corn or tuna toppings, quesadillas and a bright green iced cocktail called a grasshopper. [press release]

Soon you’ll be able to send melons, pineapples and berries carved and arranged to look like a floral bouquet in Mumbai. I do hope that Edible Arrangements, owned by a Pakistani immigrant in the US, uses local fruit—don’t they have like hundreds of varieties of mango in India? [QSR Magazine]

Fifty Buffalo Wild Wings will cross over into Canada in the next five years. I could be wrong about the polite Canadian stereotype, but I just don’t see a Brooklyn-style riot over 50-cent wings occurring up north. [FastCasual.com]

Fatburger is coming to Jakarta and Kuwait City. Beijing and Dubai locations already opened in 2010. [QSR Magazine]

Crackberry

Why, as an Oregonian, the 1990 Marion Barry scandal was so confusing.

Battered Herb Syndrome

Watercress

Even though it's crowded on weekend evenings, the spice level isn't always what it could be and worthy nearby competitors aren't scarce, I still rely on Sripraphai for a regular Thai food fix. It's the crispy watercress salad. I know this dish in and out.

Yet, on this Sunday afternoon visit (my second day in a row in Woodside—first for Jollibee, then back to Queens to replace a fried cable box. I need my True Blood and Mad Men. Did you know that the Time Warner office inside the Queens Center Mall is the only location in the entire city open on Sundays?) I was served a slightly different rendition than normal.

There was an unusually tall, fluffy pile of battered watercress sitting on top. More generous than I've seen before, the translucent golden stack gave the dish a more bountiful feel. The ratio might seem off, but once you mix things up and baste the herbs, chicken and seafood with the intensely savory goop resting at the bottom of the plate, the components settle down and mellow into a nice still-crunchy sog.

And the small ceramic dish filled with both chopped cashews and a small handful of whole nuts? It blew my mind. Well, almost. Self-garnishing is new. I don't even recall a crushed nut element in salads past. I liked it.

In a reversal, the drunken noodles did not come with the typical little dish of chile-spiked fish sauce. Shenanigans. Is the Sunday chef putting their own spin on the standards?

Next time, I'm in Woodside, I will force myself to try Centerpoint Thai, one block west of Sripraphai. There's no way that tales of a battered, fried papaya salad can go uninvestigated.

Previously on Sripraphai.