Posts from the ‘Jackson Heights’ Category

Jan 21

Rice Ave.

1/2

“Ill have brown rice,” “make that without oyster sauce and
fish sauce,” “this is really spicy.” No, no and no. I'm so
not a food snob, but when talking about Thai I am a bit particular. I cant
help it, its the one cuisine I feel like I actually “get.” Curry
shouldnt be eaten with chopsticks, and crinkle cut carrots shouldnt be
swimming around in it either.

Friday night I was excited because I'd finally be able to see the new
renovated Sripraphai, it had been a while. It's bizarre because the last
time I went was the Saturday night before I impulsively decided to fly to
Portland in October, and then like the week I came back it was written up as
the
main review in the NY Times, which caused a stir because people thought
it belonged in the Under $25 column. I was just weirded out by the photo in
the review because apparently the dining room had been completely redone in
the short time since my last visit. Anyway, I had heard that it was
reopening in its new larger form on Jan. 19, but when we trekked out on a
freezing Fri., the 20^th, it was still under construction.

Despite that neighborhood being a trove of varied and inexpensive food,
we were bent on Thai. Knowing that wed be disappointed by anything less than
Sripraphai was a given, so we opted for the more atmospheric, yet less
authentic Rice Ave down the street simply because wed never been before. Eh,
it was pretty much as expected, not what I'd been looking forward to at all.
The duck salad was good, the potential was there, but the hot part of the
hot, sour, salty, sweet dynamic was severely lacking, as it was in all of
the dishes we tried. The red curry with pork and cashew shrimp were adequate
and tasty too, but not the wow-inducing blizzard kick off meal I'd been
seeking.

Rice Ave * 72-19 Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights, NY

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Jun 21

Cositas Ricas

Rule number one: Hawaiian anything always rules. Rule number two: anything Hawaiian by way of Colombia is bound to puzzle…and yet still please. After a scary engagement party on the Upper East Side, we ended up like bats out of hell drunk, and still hungry (little crackers and pates just don't cut it) on the BQE. A food trek to Roosevelt Avenue didn't sound like a bad idea, and Cositas Ricas was still brightly lit and beckoning post-midnight.

The menu has a stuffed arepa section and a crazy juice/fountain drinks (jugos, mixtos) section, but I was mesmerized by the "caprichitos ricos" i.e. delicious caprices. Well said. This is where things like hamburguesa farahona: farahona (whatever that is) hamburger with ham, cheese, demiglase(sp) sauce and french fries and salchipapa, which is a plate of fried, chopped up sausage, french fries and hard boiled egg, are found. Of course, my personal favorite is sandwich Hawaiano: french bread, baked pork loin, and Hawaiian sauce because I'm crazy for pork and pineapple. The sandwich is large and pressed cubano-style. Absolutely what I was looking for, perfect late-night food. Perfect anytime food, really.

Even if you're stuffed to the gills, grab something to go from the bakery/dessert case. You'll be glad you did the next morning. (6/21/03)

I wouldn't have predicted Cositas Ricas would be my first NYC meal back from a short notice Portland family emergency trip. But its sort of near La Guardia, open late and does the ham and pineapple combo like no ones business. I needed to get my bearings, and Hawaiian sandwiches can be very grounding. (10/23/04)

Cositas Ricas * 7919 Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights,NY

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May 23

La Portena

Friday afternoon I had no idea, all the organ meats I'd be eating Friday
night. But Friday afternoons are like that. The evening was all about la
parilla, the mammoth mixed grill at La Portena. They have that oddball
Argentinean-Italian thing happening that makes me realize how little I know
about South American history. So, we had antipasti pre-meat. The meat
included regular sausage, blood sausage, tripe, sweetbreads, shell steak,
and tongue. Enough to easily feed three. No starches, no sides (except
chimichurri, of course). It was total Atkin's paradise…too bad I'm doing
Weight Watchers now.
The family sitting across from us, who were splitting la parilla three ways,
had me mesmerized for no good reason. I was oddly attracted to the Mexican
teen I assume was out with his younger brother and dad. He had this
androgynous, handsome, soft face and Sun-in orange streaked bangs a la me in
1984. He seemed so gentle, and upstanding (that could have something to do
with the fact he wasn't speaking English), so unlike all the bratty teens I
usually see around. He still had that immigrant-y politeness to him. He
hadn't gone bad yet. God bless him, out on a Friday night with his family
eating organ meats. I couldn't stop staring. Thankfully, the walls are
covered in mirrors. Perfect for ogling. (5/23/03)

La Portena * 7425 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY

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Jul 6

Jackson Diner

This is one of those "they used to be good" places. But I wouldn't know that
first hand, as this was my first experience and I must confess
little-to-average knowledge of Indian cuisine. I'm not fussy about it, don't
know the nuances between regional styles and can't detect if Bangladeshis
are manning the kitchens, creating an inauthentic version. So, it was fine.
We tried typical fare like a mixed tandoori grill and lamb vindaloo. The
chutneys were much fresher and spicy than I was used to, the garlic naan was
top notch and the coconut-crusted chicken cutlets with mango chutney were a
nice break from pakoras and samosas. (7/6/02)

Due to off timing, I never seem to be able to take advantage of lunch
buffets. I'm sure that's for the best. But we got our act together this
Saturday and opted for the biggie, Jackson Diner, though there are probably
better choices. Crowded doesn't necessarily equal quality. And yes, it was
packed. There was a line just to get plates and start in.

This buffet had a little flair due to the cooked on demand dosa station, but
a majority of the set up was steam table style. Another table was filled
with condiments, little round chickpea fritters and a giant bowl of what
looked like square fried wontons. Choices included tandoori chicken, basmati
rice, naan, chicken curry, goat curry, a shrimp curry (yes, I'm using curry
generically–I'm unsure of the nuances) with whole hard boiled eggs (I'm
still not down with the Asian fascination with hard boiled eggs). There were
also vegetable dishes like palak paneer, a mixed curry, daal, and something
I'd never seen before, kadi pakora, which was the only dish that made me
kind of think.

The pale yellow color, sour and slightly sharp flavor and mystery main
ingredient reminded me of jackfruit curry I became enamored with a New Asha. As it turns
out the base is yogurt sauce and the pakora is well, a pakora, but chopped
up and mixed in. I had no idea. Kadi pakora is akin to samosa chat, which
is another confusing crisp/smooth mix that's way beyond fritters and dip,
but too thick to be a soup. I tend not to think of curries as yogurt based
because I have a S.E. Asian culinary bias (and a yogurt bias on top of that.
I often buy some little containers for lunch and they end up going bad in
the refrigerator because I never eat them), but that's really what this dish
is.

What a crazy thing. I'm trying to think of an equivalent, it's not like
dumplings in soup because those are doughy and this is crispy fried. It's
more like Chinese crullers going with congee, but both of those components
are kind of bland and these are contrary. Maybe the smooth/crunch contrast
is the appeal of kadi pakora. Or maybe I just like anything fried and fatty,
which I imagine this must be. (11/5/05)

Jackson Diner * 37-47 74th St., Jackson Heights, NewYork

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Jul 6

Rajbhog Sweets

I absolutely love this stuff, but I don't know what any of it is called (at
least yet). Asian goodies totally rock, and I'm just beginning to delve into
Indian sweets like kulfi, burfi and other words that sound like bodily
functions. The colors draw me in, though the tastes I can't always place.
Rose water, cardamom, pistachio, coconut. Most are riffs on a basic building
block like halvah, sort of how Viet-Thai type desserts all seem to involve
coconut milk and rice with subtle variations. Further research must be done.
The gift-style boxes are a nice, old-fashioned candy counter touch.

Rajbhog Sweets * Jackson
Heights, New York

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Jun 1

Pearson’s

This is one of those constant comment places. And as I've never been to the
South or Texas, I have little first-hand BBQ expertise. My impression is
that it's the best by New York standards. They slow-cook the meat in
smokers, sauce served on the side. Cuts like brisket and ribs are sold by
the pound, along with accompaniments like corn bread, chile and coleslaw. It
is good, but I don't know if it's truly great. However, it is probably the
best Texas style BBQ served in the back of an Irish sports bar in Queens.
(6/1/02)

Pearson's has gone through a million permutations since my original visit. I
can't even remember when an Upper West Side location popped up or when this
place went kaput for good. Now NYC bbq is all the rage–who would've
thought? (11/05)

Pearson's* 71-04 35th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY

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Mar 23

Delhi Palace

People seem to prefer Jackson Heights over Sixth St. Indian. Maybe they
equate travel time with authenticity. Regardless, I do think Delhi Palace is
a notch above.

I tried a lamb and turnip curry, crazy potato-stuffed, battered, fried
peppers akin to chile poppers minus the processed cheese and the lentil
donut. The food had a fresher, clean quality than I'm used to.

The latest word on Jackson Heights Indian is a new place that starts
with the letter S. You can never keep up with this city, can you?

DelhiPalace * 3733 74th St., Jackson Heights, NY

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