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Posts from the ‘Chains of Love’ Category

Where Aggression is Good

There’s nothing like a New York Times trend piece to make one feel surly and contrarian. Yesterday’s “Brooklyn’s Tide of Chains, Decidedly Local” did the trick for me.

“While New Yorkers have been nervously eyeing the encroaching tide of national chains, fearing the stores will wash away all things small and charming, a different retail species has taken root in this still-gentrifying quarter: the chain that is distinctly, even aggressively, local.”

As a resident of this “still-gentrifying quarter” I feel a renewed vigor in my love of national chains.

Carl’s Jr.

Did I love it? In theory. The experience was more exciting than the food.

Eating at Carl’s Jr. on a Portland vacation doesn’t make much sense but I like trying West Coast chains that are absent in NYC. Don’t worry, I also ate at Burgerville, the acceptably seasonal and local Northwest fast food chain, too. If I had more time I would’ve also popped into Jack in the Box and the strange new-to-me sit down restaurant, Claim Jumper.

The first thing I was reminded of while walking along the bus mall from our hotel to Carl’s Jr. a few blocks up the street was that Oregon may as well lose its Beaver State nickname and borrow from Oklahoma. I don’t know that there’s a more panhandley state in the nation. Oregonians who haven’t been to NYC don’t seem to realize that here it’s not normal to see someone sleeping on porches, in every doorway and to be asked for change every few feet. Last year I noticed a man asking for change on William St. near my office. He’s been there ever since and the only reason I notice him is because he’s the only pandhandler I’ve encountered in the Financial District. Ok, there’s also that tranny who begs at the Carroll St. F in the evenings but that works out to like one panhandler per neighborhood.

I was reading blog reviews about Clyde Common (which I just wrote about) and was struck by this comment, which you would never see on an NYC website:

"I will indeed try to visit. Unfortunately my last effort left me confronted with about 30 street people lying or sitting on the sidewalk around the entrance at noon. Not wanting to go through the beggars brigade with associated insults if I did not drop money, I left for more options in less confrontational climes."

Nice. But even more striking was that the entire Carl’s Jr. and neighboring streets had been taken over by cosplay kids. Apparently, an anime convention for youngsters (I saw maybe two chubby guys over 30 and there were a few over-21s because I heard an exchange, “I’m not drinking any $5 beers.” “No, this place isn’t expensive.” If I had any doubt I was back in Portland where a $5 beer might be considered luxurious) was in town and everyone had on their best rainbow tights, hooded cloaks, cat ears, turquoise wigs, plastic swords in tow. The thing is, no one appeared to be dressed as a particular character. I withhold judgment since I was once a bored, white, middle class, geeky teen living in the suburbs of this very second (third?) tier city. There are worse outlets for too much free time.

Most jarring of all (after noticing that the staff was entirely white, super polite, some middle aged, and that they bring the food to your table–I suppose that in minority-less cities, someone must staff service industry jobs) was that the eatery had completely run out of ketchup. What kind of fast food joint runs out of ketchup?! We were offered bbq sauce instead.

Knowing I would be eating a proper meal in a few hours, I shied away from the Six Dollar Burgers and chose the basic Famous Star with cheese. It was fine, nothing more. You can order your meals small, medium or large, meaning the size of your fries and drink. My respectable skin-on fries and Minute Maid lemonade were mediums.

Concentrating on the burger proved difficult because we had walked into the middle of what felt like a high school drama club field trip with a dash of non-dining tweekers going from table to table saying who knows what because I wouldn’t make eye contact since I know better than to engage spazzy strangers. As we were getting ready to leave, a young-ish tattooed bike messenger-y kid came over and asked if he could have the rest of our fries, the six or so stragglers that were covered with a used napkin. Uh, I guess.

On one hand, I hate waste, maybe it’s because I’m an Oregonian, I never throw out substantial food and always take home leftovers. Why shouldn’t someone eat remaining supersized portions getting tossed out? On the other hand, have some dignity, man. James enjoyed the novelty and went and found this guy and his comrades hanging out down the street and gave him the last quarter cup of his Coke Zero. “Thanks!” was the genuine reply.

I’m still torn on this practice because in Portland so many are destitute by choice. In fact, there’s an entire culture of scrounging at the Reed College cafeteria, a university that costs $39,440 per year.

Carl’s Jr. * 508 SW Taylor St., Portland, OR

Sizzlin’

Cheddar-Bay-BiscuitsIt goes without saying that Jay Leno is not on in my home during prime time or any time. (I did try to watch about four-minutes-worth last night and caught a predictably non-funny parody of that girl who threw back the baseball her dad caught during a game between unknown teams because I follow sports even less closely than late night talk shows.)

But I wish I had been watching Conan last night because there was a delightful chain restaurant-heavy interview with Megan Fox. She knows an awful lot about Sizzler and had this to say about one of my weaknesses, the Cheddar Bay Biscuit: “The cheese biscuits at Red Lobster. Yes! They deserve applause.”

I’m clapping as I type. I’m also imagining a "Kokomo"-style ode to Cheddar Bay. “That’s where we want to play, way down to Cheddar Bay.” I mean, if Jimmy Buffet can sing about a cheeseburger.

Even one of my favorite Malaysian food experts, Rasa Malaysia, has strayed from her traditional Southeast Asian-focused mission to publish a recipe replicating these soft, cheddary gems.

Photo straight from Red Lobster

Mezcal’s

Did I love it? Not immensely. Either I’ve matured or the never-special menu has slipped into sub par territory. After a few margaritas you might not care, though.

I’ve always thought of Mezcal’s as a guilty pleasure but on my last visit I just felt kind of guilty. It’s getting harder and harder to justify mediocre Ameri-Mex with Calexico and Oaxaca now also in the neighborhood.

Mezcal's quesadilla

Gooey, melted cheese on flour tortillas has its place. I’m a sucker for Tacos Nuevo Mexico’s “gringa” quesadilla. But this chorizo quesadilla was a sad specimen. The corn tortillas weren’t very pliable and the cheese didn’t even keep the sides adhered to one another, meanwhile the thing was topped with what tasted like thin Hunt’s tomato sauce, not even canned enchilada sauce, which would’ve also been kind of sad.

Mezcal's mole

The mole seafood enchiladas were fine for what they were. Of course, this wasn’t a sauce painstakingly ground from 25 ingredients but this sweetish mole-lite is a bit more interesting than the taco+burrito+chimichanga combo platters that many diners favor.

I noticed that they have removed their outdoor seating (they do have a back garden, which is where everyone except us were sitting on this particular balmy evening. I prefer indoor dining, though it ended up not mattering since the front floor-to-ceiling windows were all open and I was harassed by tiny mosquitoes anyway) now that Buttermilk Channel has set up theirs on the corner. I don’t know that one has to do with the other, but I would feel less ostentatious dining in front of Mezcal’s on this still mildly ratty (by Carroll Gardens’s standards only) stretch of Court Street than eating my New American fried chicken and waffles alfresco. Frankly, my favorite thing in that immediate area is the greasy crab rangoon at Wing Hua.

Mezcal’s * 522 Court St., Brooklyn, NY

McCurry Isn’t On the Menu

Burbur ayam

One of my favorite chain-related topics, possibly even favorite period, is fast food dishes from American chains served in other countries. I’ll never forget the Cinnabon I saw dripping in melted cheese in the mall inside Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Towers.

Thankfully, Food Network Humor has compiled a list of 40 McDonald’s items from around the world so I don’t have to. I’m particularly fond of the burbur ayam above, but then I have a Malaysian fetish (which doesn't extend into cheddary cinnamon rolls).

Speaking of the region, after an eight-year-battle, McCurry, an Indian restaurant in Malaysia has successfully beaten McDonald's in a lawsuit over the use of the Mc prefix.

Keeping It Hyperreal

1. vonda shepherd red lobster

Why do I know that name? It'll come to me…yes, the Ally McBeal songstress. Oh nineties, good for something, after all.

Though I’m afraid that I can’t help this searcher—do they want to know if she was spotted in a Red Lobster a la Page Six, if her music is piped into the restaurant or what?

The most disconcerting aspect is that apparently I made mention of Vonda Shepherd at some point in the past (and spelled Shephard incorrectly).

Well, at least we have this.


2. the simulacra of olive garden

That’s a bit heady. And I didn’t attend an intellectually rigorous college (obviously) so this is no time and place for deep deconstructing. But according to Jean Baudrillard (via Wikipedia, of course) a simulacrum is no mere copy of the real, “but becomes truth in its own right: the hyperreal.” Sounds like the Olive Garden I know. So, uh, Tuscan all the way!

Also, if you Google “but becomes truth in its own right: the hyperreal” you’ll find a shitload of artist’s statements.

3. how many points in dunkin donuts flatbread egg white veg

Ok, more my speed. Black and white questions, and one with which I have direct experience. I’m a sad sack who counts Weight Watchers points and has eaten a Dunkin’ Donuts Flatbread sandwich (only once).

Six points, if you must know. For the record, one of their chocolate-frosted doughnuts is only 5 points.

Shake Shack

Shake shack double cheeseburger

Did I love it? Yes, I did and plan to tackle the outdoor location now that Fall weather is creeping up and I’m becoming zen about insufferable lines.

It’s one thing to say you’ve never eaten at Masa, many haven’t, but it’s quite another to admit you’ve never been to Shake Shack. I’m
line-phobic, I’m sorry. And I still haven’t braved the Madison Square Park trauma. It just happened that I was unexpectedly dispatched to the Upper West Side on a Saturday afternoon.

Try Gus and Gabriel because it’s new? Kefi, which has always sounded vaguely interesting but is just too far? I’ve already tried the uptown Fatty Crab. It had to be Shake Shack.

Now that the weather has become balmy and manageable, that brief painful humid spurt already seems like the distant past. I wouldn’t say that 90-degree, sauna-like conditions are optimal for double cheeseburgers. But all went smoothly, even during prime time, we didn’t wait more than ten minutes for food and were able to snag a table inside.

My bun literally disintegrated from the hot air trapped in the waxed wrapper combined with the heat from my hands. The tall layered sandwich began to meld into one squished mass on the end where I was holding it. Which isn’t to say that the juicy, melted mess wasn’t tasty, I just had to devour the burger faster than normal because it was falling apart before my eyes. Seasonings and any subtleties of flavor were lost, no time for pondering patties.

Shake shack cheese fries

And because that wasn’t enough molten gooeyness, we ordered cheese fries. Once you’ve crossed the line into excess, there’s no sense in retreating. As a fan of processed, bright orange, the thick, mild real cheese sauce was a shock. A good shock, not bland in the way macaroni and cheese can be (I think I’m a rare mac & cheese hater). Now I’m ruined for Nathan’s cheese fries.

If I had any doubts as to whether Shake Shack qualified as a chain, they have been quelled. Seven new overseas branches are planned for Saudi Arabia and Dubai. Maybe they can make lamb burgers.

Shake Shack * 366 Columbus Ave., New York, NY

T.G.I. Thursday’s

Sure, they’re a bunch of cranks but the New York Post is good for some things. You wouldn’t find a feature about the origins of T.G.I. Friday’s in the New York Times’s dining section. Well, you might but it would be annoying and likely to contain words like folderol.

Who knew that there was a whole stable of offshoots based on days of the week?

“Thursday's (a more upscale supper club), Wednesday's (a huge discothéque), Tuesday's (a speakeasy-style bar — no relation to Ruby Tuesday) and Sunday's (an ice-cream parlor).”

If I were one of those Brooklynites who throws secret dinner parties in my rugged yet airy loft for my friends who just happen to be media elite, I would totally recreate Thursday’s.

Big in Japan

Japanstarbucks
Photo from Trends in Japan

Hong Kong has no corner on re-imagining Starbucks in Asia. Japan has a number of concept shops, and they seem to have a penchant for using historic homes in subtle ways.

Supposedly, there was a Starbucks at the Great Wall but I didn’t see it on my visit. I did patronize an illy café there, though.


Su Casa es Mi Casa?

32235-Qdoba_card What happens something I love: chains (duh) teams up with something that makes me want to cry: faux speakeasies? Inner turmoil.

Su Casa, the semi-secret bar above the kind of new West Village Qdoba, is serving appropriately freakish cocktails and a benign roster of burritos and such. Orange Kool-Aid and Patron? It’s a shame that I’ll be out of town on their official open date of September 10 because I could really go for a Satan’s Horse (raspberry liqueur, tequila, minced ginger and Red Bull).