Posts from the ‘Chains of Love’ Category

Aug 22

Chain Links: Empire (of the Sun) Boardwalk

I don’t normally look to Mex and the City for chain restaurant news (usually, it’s more of a source for I wish I could get away with wearing 4” serape-esque heels notions) but today I learned of Moshi Moshi, a Mexican conveyor belt sushi chain that will be opening an offshoot in lower Manhattan. Named Taka Taka, the concept is described as “Mexican sushi & Japanese tacos.” My one experience with sushi in Mexico City introduced me to their inclusion of cream cheese on just about every roll, so this could prove interesting.

I’m also excited for the impending midtown Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf even though it’s technically Californian and I’m never in midtown. I say technically because I had never encountered one until I started visiting the malls of Southeast Asia, so I always associate it with that part of the world. While I never drink sugary, frosty, whipped cream topped beverages in the US, there’s something about sweating to the point of collapse, then getting blasted with air conditioning while drinking an Iced Blended to revive (the experience is even better if followed by MOS Burger). Plus, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf is where I spied Steve Buscemi in Shanghai (pictured above). If it’s good enough for a fellow Brooklyn dweller…

And I guess Firehouse Subs is opening in Puerto Rico, but really who cares about that.

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Aug 15

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Spanish Sandwich Invasion

As much as I enjoy keeping up with American brands permeating the universe (good luck to Spam positioning itself as luxurious in China) I get most excited about foreign chains staking claims on US soil and attempting to pushing their fast food on us.

The latest venture is Spain’s 100 Montaditos, selling inexpensive 5” sandwiches. Can ingredients like thinly sliced chorizo or blue cheese between crispy rolls compete with five-dollar foot-longs? So metric.

Up until now I was only familiar with chains Pans & Company and Bocatta, which I have patronized in Spain despite the availability of montaditos at most run-of-the-mill tapas bars (above is a typical version, jamon and green pepper, from a random courtyard bar in Bilbao–I stopped by Pans & Company afterward because I needed to use the bathroom and ended up buying another sandwich). So far, the company has one branch in Miami, plans for Union Square and then total US domination. Seriously, 4,000 American restaurants over the next five years is certainly ambitious.

I am particularly interested in how they’ve localized the menu for the US. 100 Montaditos does serve alcohol in Miami, but the cheapest glass of wine is $3.50, inexpensive but not Spain inexpensive, i.e. 1.50 euro ($2.14) a glass. I’m glad to see they’ve also kept the tinto verano (red wine and Sierra Mist). Olives, chips and French fries with dipping sauces are served in both countries as sides while the nachos were dropped for the US.

We also are missing some of the more esoteric of the 100 sandwiches like the sweet and sour pork with Chinese salad, the Mexican one with veal and salsa, those with gulas, a.k.a. baby eels. In exchange, we’ve gained, pulled pork, hummus and sweeter sandwiches employing peanut butter, jam and cream cheese as well as one that contains squares of Hershey’s Cookies and Cream bar. I guess Americans like bbq, candy and mashed chickpeas?

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Aug 11

Chains, They Are a Changing

I wasn’t crazy about Patch.com at first—does Brooklyn need more neighborhood-centric obsession?—but I’ve come to love its hyperlocal approach, particularly for towns that wouldn’t otherwise be blogged about. (The Carroll Gardens crime blotter is also fun and is fond of using the word creeps–who knew a woman was knocked to the ground but not robbed on my corner? Also, I'm always shocked at the amount of cash people are carrying when they are mugged. Is it normal to have hundreds of dollars on your person?) Like Woodbridge, NJ where I find myself more often than one might imagine. It’s the epicenter of chains in their natural environment. If you drive (and you’ll need a car) ten miles in any direction, you will find just about every restaurant you’ve ever been deprived of in NYC. An embarassment of riches.

For some unfathomable reason, Woodbridge has not had an Olive Garden. This will soon be rectified, but more importantly the Woodbridge Mall will also be receiving the lesser known Darden brand, Bahama Breeze. Thankfully, Patch has photos of the construction process. I will so be there for the October opening and the mall’s 40th anniversary celebration.

Meanwhile, Wendy’s is getting a makeover and has built a new prototype that includes a lounge area with a fireplace, open kitchen (no chef’s table?) and a Wi-Fi area. And I was so looking forward to a retro re-introduction of those tabletops with the olde-tymey newspaper design.

Do not think that chain revamps don’t play a role in decision-making. Since I get a four-day weekend this Labor Day I have been scheming potential destinations. After a quick skim of the NYT’s travel section, my eyes popped out when I saw the recent, “36 Hours in Bar Harbor, Maine.” I know nothing about the coastal town other than that it was the inspiration for Red Lobster’s new style. Now I feel the need to compare the original with the interpretation. A nine-plus-hour drive, though, it’s probably not happening.

Photo credit: Lorence's Kitchen

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Aug 11

Chain Links: America Does Not Yet Run on Dunkin’

Similar to how some Americans cite the arrival of a Thai restaurant to indicate gentrification (I don’t fully agree with this) you know you’re on your way up when your country gets a KFC. Nairobi’s middle class is growing and Galito’s had better watch its back.

All we hear about is drug violence, but that doesn't mean there is no place for Red Lobster, Olive Garden and The Capital Grille in Mexico. Darden's SVP of business development said, "With its growing middle class and strong affinity for American brands, Mexico is an attractive growth market for Darden."

I’m mildly embarrassed that I didn’t know Nestle Toll House Café even existed until I saw one in the flesh at Woodbridge Mall (apparently, I'm stuck in the Famous Amos, Mrs. Fields era). The Middle East is savvier than I and Kuwait will be welcoming one. Dubai already had a branch.

If you live in the Northeast, you might be under the impression that Dunkin’ Donuts dominates everywhere. Not so in Europe where the only presence is in Russia, Germany and Spain (where it’s just Dunkin’ Coffee since rosquilla is used to describe a fried, frosted ring of dough). This will change if Dunkin’ Donuts has its way.

Dunkin’ Donuts also has problems in its own country, and it wants to win over those west of the Mississippi. We had them when I was a youngster, but they’ve since disappeared from the Northwest. (I might be one of the only defenders of The Killing, but when they made a reference to Dunkin’ Donuts I cringed.) Everyone is so indie on the West Coast (not true) that the company will likely have to market to lower income folks who are too poor and/or uneducated to give a shit about coffee varietals and artisanal breakfast pastries (those who abhor chains might enjoy the maple bars, a regional specialty I never knew was regional, at Coco in Portland—it was only one block from my hotel so I could not resist).

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Aug 10

And What About P’Zones?

Everyone’s getting back to basics. McDonald’s has expunged McFalafel from its Israel locations and Olive Garden is shying away from “culinary forward” dishes like pear and Gorgonzola salads and concoctions like the made-up-sounding pastachetti that was giving me pause earlier this year. There is no such Italian thing. Same goes for soffatellli.

I assumed rollatini and rollata were also Olive Garden inventions, but it turns out there’s nothing non-traditional…about the words, at least. Lasagna Rollata al Forno is purely R&D-derived.

I’m only surprised that chains don’t invent authentic-seeming-to-English-speakers dishes more often. The only other example I can think of off-hand is Taco Bell’s enchirito. There must be more. Anyone?

Items like chimichangas that have been widely adopted as real don't count.

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Aug 10

¡Dairy Queen® para toda ocasión!

Last week a gentleman dressed like Cookie Monster, or rather El Monstruo ComeGalletas, proposed to his girlfriend in a Dairy Queen somewhere in Mexico.

As usual, the most important part of the story has been omitted. Was the ring hidden in something edible or not? They do sell Chips Ahoy ice cream sandwiches, after all.

Photo: Dairy Queen (en español) on Facebook

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Aug 4

Chain Links: Blizzards and Ice Storms

Russia is ideal for American fast food. People earn less than in the US, but customers are willing to pay more. A Papa John’s pizza that would cost $14 the US, sells for $21.62 in Moscow. Buffalo chicken, complete with Tabasco, blue cheese and celery has been a best-selling topping.

You can get beer delivered with your Russian Papa John’s, but Starbucks is not making any concessions for regional vices. Smoking is not allowed in their Russian coffee shops, a rarity for the country.

By now we’ve all heard about the fake Apple stores in China, but it doesn’t stop there. Dairy Fairy, which serves an Ice Storm instead of a Blizzard, bears a striking resemblance to Dairy Queen. According to the Wall Street Journal, at least. I don't think it's quite as uncanny as the Ikea copycat.

The real DQ will open in Guatemala in October.

Photo credit: Melissa Powers/Wall Street Journal

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Jul 13

Shaken or Stirred?

So, Mexican Martinis, margaritas served with speared green olives and additional beverage left in the shaker, are a thing in Austin?

There's an Applebee's in Union, NJ that also makes such a libation (accidentally, I presumed). You're looking at it.

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Jul 13

Chain Links: Burger Barrage

I feel like I should be excited by Steak 'n Shake coming to NYC but I'm not, and it's not an international chain anyway.

Giaffras sounds more like my kind of chain: cute animal mascot, long history, strong branding and fast foodizing a cuisine we don't have much of in the US. The Brazilian steak and burger restaurant just opened in Miami. Please bring your estrogonofes and parmeggianas to NYC.

Pret a Manger is crossing the Chunnel and its name could cause problems in France. How gauche is a restaurant called Ready to Eat Food? Wait till Pink Taco shows up in Paris.

In a northwest to slightly less northwest move, Vancourver B.C.'s Vera's Burger Shack will be opening in Portland's Pearl District. As a crusty old-timer, I couldn't patronize in this so-called Pearl District that didn't exisit in my day. (Reading Eater PDX in preparation for my rare trip back home is blowing my mind with neighborhoods I've never heard of: N. Mississippi, Foster-Powell, Central Eastside Industrial, Alphabet District…what?)

Hardees in Kazakhstan will bring “real, American-style charbroiled burgers to the market.”

I'm not sure what Carl's Jr. will import to Indonesia.

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Jul 11

I’m Loving It

There are a lot of dark horses in Technomic’s 50 fastest growing chains (with sales of $25 million to $50 million). I’d never even heard of breastaurant Brick House Tavern + Tap, in the number one spot. And they happen to have one in South Plainfield, right in the section of New Jersey where I run monthly errands. Beer bongs after Target and Costco? I’m serious about this.

Most surprising, though, was Loving Hut, a vegan, mildly culty restaurant I blogged about not so long ago, appearing at number 13. I guess a lot of people dig Supreme Master Ching Hai and/or veggie burgers.

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